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New from the Bargarh looms

The Pasapali edit

Sarees in the dice-board check that western Odisha has woven for generations. Every thread is tied and dyed by hand before a single row goes on the loom.

  • 21 days to weave one saree
  • 6.3 m with blouse piece
  • 100% cotton or mulberry silk
Pasapali saree, indigo with a madder Kumbha border

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    How a Bandha saree is made

    The pattern is dyed into the thread before weaving. That is why the edges of every motif feather slightly.

    1. 1

      Tie

      Bundles of thread are bound with rubber strips wherever the dye must not reach. A single saree can need thousands of ties.

    2. 2

      Dye

      Each bundle is dipped, untied, re-tied and dipped again, once for every colour in the design.

    3. 3

      Weave

      The dyed threads are lined up on the loom so the pattern appears row by row as the cloth grows.

    “A Pasapali saree takes my family about three weeks. The first ten days are only tying and dyeing — the loom comes last.”